Tuesday, 27 January 2009

Arthur's Seat at Dawn

In Gaelic its called Àrd-thir Suidhe... try saying that one. It's the main and central hill (more like gigantic mountain) of Edinburgh and rises above the city to a height of 251 m... that's like 900 feet. One legend connects it to King Arthur and another suggests it got its name from the phrase "Archer's Seat," as the rock was a crucial point of defense in the Middle Ages. Like most of the "hills" in Edinburgh it is an extinct volcano, approximately 350 million years old. Or so they thought... On the 6th of August 2006, the hill caught fire and burned for nearly 24 hours, scorching a lot of the land and trapping hikers at the top. And then this past September another mysterious fire broke out. Still no one knows how the fires started. Extinct you say?
I obviously googled all of this after I climbed it or I wouldn't have been so eager to hike up there at 6am after getting only 2 hours of sleep. But since I wasn't tainted by the mysteries yet, hiking at 6am after getting only 2 hours of sleep seemed like a fantastic idea! I went with three girlfriends and it took us about 30 minutes to actually find the rocks that point to the mountain it was so dark. After feeling something that felt like rocks, we began the trek forward. We sort of cross crossed across the face of the mountain until we reached the first level. It was extraordinary. Not a sign of light yet and Edinburgh was still fast asleep. I took that first picture around 7:30am. We then began the hike to the second level and as we slowly inched up the peak, the wind got stronger and stronger. We made it to the very top, but had to hold on to the marker to prevent from blowing away... I'm serious.
The sun would rise at 8:21 according to our calculations, so we had about 20 minutes to kill at the top of a fatally windy mountain peak. We found a crevice and protected ourselves from death for those very long 20 minutes. The sky became lighter as the sun gradually lit the sky and all of Edinburgh and beyond was illuminated. It was truly beautiful. I took this second picture around 8:20am.

I fell on the way down. And then slept for 8 hours after.

Amanda

Sunday, 25 January 2009

Robert Burns, Address to A Haggis


Address To A Haggis

Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face,
Great chieftain o' the puddin-race!
Aboon them a' ye tak your place,
Painch, tripe, or thairm:
Weel are ye wordy of a grace
As lang's my arm.

The groaning trencher there ye fill,
Your hurdies like a distant hill,
Your pin wad help to mend a mill
In time o' need,
While thro' your pores the dews distil
Like amber bead.

His knife see rustic Labour dight,
An' cut ye up wi' ready slight,
Trenching your gushing entrails bright
Like onie ditch;
And then, O what a glorious sight,
Warm-reekin, rich!

Then, horn for horn, they strech an' strive:
Deil tak the hindmost! on they drive,
Till a' their weel-swall'd kytes belyve,
Are bent like drums;
Then auld Guidman, maist like to rive,
'Bethankit!' hums.

Is there that owre his French ragout
Or olio that wad staw a sow,
Or fricassee wad mak her spew
Wi' perfect sconner,
Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu' view
On sic a dinner?

Poor devil! see him owre his trash,
As feckless as a wither'd rash,
His spindle shank, a guid whip-lash,
His nieve a nit;
Thro' bluidy flood or field to dash,
O how unfit!

But mark the Rustic, haggis-fed,
The trembling earth resounds his tread.
Clap in his walie nieve a blade,
He'll make it whissle;
An' legs, an' arms, an' heads will sned,
Like taps o' thrissle.

Ye Pow'rs wha mak mankind your care,
And dish them out their bill o 'fare,
Auld Scotland wants nae skinking ware
That jaups in luggies;
But, if ye wish her gratefu' prayer,
Gie her a Haggis!

Burns Weekend


This weekend is Burns Weekend, Scotland's annual celebration of their beloved national poet Robert Burns. He is 250 today! Let me tell you...the Scots know how to party, so when a national celebration comes around, things get crazy. I wasn't seeing any kilts my first week, which was obviously quite disappointing, but that has all changed. Everywhere I turn, I see harry legs. So much plaid. Its like a hipster's dream. There are so many events in honor of the poet... dances, plays, concerts, drink-deals, special menus, and Céilidhs....
So before there were clubs and discos, there were Céilidhs, a traditional Gaelic dance originating in Scotland, and thus, the plethora of Kilts this weekend. Céilidhs originally facilitated courting and prospects for marriage for young people. Men had to dance, sing, and recite poetry and then would win the heart of a Celtic girl... so romantic. I'm not sure it serves the same purpose today, but I have seen some terribly short kilts, so you never know.
I think Haggis might be unavoidable after tonight. I shall try it and report.

Amanda

Friday, 23 January 2009

Elephant House


Finally admitting that I was a tourist in this city, I went to the Elephant House coffee shop. The odd name certainly compliments the peculiarities that inspired J.K Rowling. Although most of the coffee shops in Edinburgh claim to be the birthplace of Harry Potter, this one seems to be the ring leader (they even have a picture of her on the wall). Its very quaint with mismatched chairs and tables all made out of various woods. The entire shop is covered in what seemed like more than 600 elephant figurines of all shapes and sizes and an entire wall of napkins with drawings of elephants... reminded me of those people that collect porcelain 14th century French antiques... except elephants.The most spectacular part of the attraction was actually not its claim to fame, but its magnificent view of Edinburgh castle. I went early evening with my friend Tace and we eyed the table right along the window, ready to claim it as soon as its occupants left, to get the best view. In the evening the majestic castle is lit beautifully in white lights, creating a stunning backdrop as we drank our glasses of £2.00 Merlot (delicious.)
Maybe i'll keep going to will a 7 book multi-million dollar story out of me... as the 600 elephants stir my creativity.
Cross my fingers.

Amanda

Wednesday, 21 January 2009

The Inauguration from Abroad


I knew that everywhere and anywhere in the world January 20th would be momentous, so that alleviated some of my anxiety about not being a little bit closer to the US. I had class until 5pm... as soon as the clock gave me permission to storm out of my British Art seminar I met my friends at a pub called "Native State" (Appropriate, don't you think?).
We walked into the pub chatting about how excited we were and realized we were the only ones talking. The entire pub was silent staring at three flat-screens ( right above the whiskey shelf). It was pretty amazing. 70 University students from all over the globe were glued to this moment in a tiny pub in Edinburgh, Scotland.

I ate a burger and drank a beer in honor.

Amanda

Tuesday, 20 January 2009

Snow in Scotland!!!


It does not snow in Scotland... ever. Sometimes in the higher up mountains there is a little bit of winter wonderland-esk flurries, but usually it is just rain... lots and lots of rain.
IT SNOWED YESTERDAY FOR 10 MINUTES! I think it was closer to hail (quite painful to experience) but nevertheless it looked like snow!
Twas brilliant!
Upon researching snow in Scotland I came across the Highland Cow... also known as "Hairy Coo" or "Heilian Coo." They are an ancient Scottish breed of beef cattle with long outward spreading horns and long wavy pelts colored black, brindled, red, yellow, or dun.

I shall go to the Highlands this weekend to find one!

Amanda

Sunday, 18 January 2009

In Gilli's Honor


So, NOT following in the footsteps of my dearest Gilli, I will try my absolute best to keep some kind of record of my adventures and share them with whomever wishes to follow. I also will try my best to post more than twice... I said try.

First and foremost. $10 for anyone who can name the musical after which my blog is titled.

My first impression of Edinburgh was made by my taxi driver from the airport to my residence. He was undoubtedly intoxicated or just very hung over, but it made for a brilliant warped view of the landscape and architecture as he swerved off the road sporadically. He also wouldn't stop talking about John Wayne and the "Independence" of America. He kept saying "Nee-Bahda," which I later realized meant "Don't bother." Note to self. I obviously followed his example and went out every night this week, discovering my new favorite drink called a "Hot Toddy." It consists of whiskey, hot water, lemon, honey, and cloves. Definitely sooths the soul.
I am determined to travel as much as possible, and thus, to Glasgow this weekend it was!!! It rained... a lot. And we wandered aimlessly trying to find a warm and dry restaurant, ending up in a place called the Goose. (Think a high school cafeteria but with a minimum age of 87 and burgers ON SALE.)
We searched through Eleanor's handy dandy guide book of the best eats, shopping, whiskey, and cashmere stores in Scotland and ended up at a truly unforgettable restaurant. We entered and were immediately greeted with the folk sounds of Scotland. An old man was singing about his love for Scotland and how Scots can travel all over the world but will always return home, their love never having wavered.
Haven't tried Haggis yet.
More to come.

-Amanda